227 Francatellis Modern Cook a Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches Year 1885

Book by Charles Elmé Francatelli from 1846

The Modern Cook

Title folio of 21st edition
Author	Charles Elmé Francatelli
Illustrator	60 engravings, artists not named
Land	England
Subject	Professional cooking
Publisher	Richard Bentley & Son
Publication date	1846 (1846)
Pages	560 (1886 ed.)

The Modern Cook was the first cookery book past the Anglo-Italian cook Charles Elmé Francatelli (1805–1876). It was get-go published in 1846. It was popular for half a century in the Victorian era, running through 29 London editions by 1896. It was also published in America.

The book offered elaborate dishes, described with French terminology such as bisque, entrées, entremets, vol-au-vent, timbale and soufflé. It included bills of fare for meals for up to 300 people, and for a series of eight- or nine-course dinners served to Queen Victoria; one exceptional royal dinner in 1841 had sixteen entrées and 16 entremets, including truffles in Champagne.

The Modernistic Melt was the showtime to mention filling wafer cones with ice cream. The book, written for upper heart-course housewives, is illustrated with 60 engravings, often showing how to present carefully busy centrepiece dishes such every bit "Salmon à la Chambord" for large dinner parties.

The book influenced households in Britain and America to aspire to more complex, French-style dinners in simulated of the Queen, and resulted in a modify in eating habits, including the modern two-course approach for both lunch and dinner.

Context [edit]

Charles Elmé Francatelli, from an Italian family, was born in London in 1805, and learnt cookery in France. Coming to England, he worked for various aristocrats before becoming chief chef of Crockford's club and so chief melt to Queen Victoria in 1840.^[1] He went on to work at Crockford's once more, at the Coventry House and Reform Clubs, St James'south Hotel, and for the Prince and Princess of Wales.^[2] This made him a celebrity melt of his time.^[3]

Book [edit]

Arroyo [edit]

"Salmis of Partridges with Aspic Jelly"

Autonomously from the preface and Francatelli's communication on serving wine, the body of the book consists almost entirely of recipes without any kind of introduction. At that place is no guidance on choice of kitchenware or advice on the layout of the kitchen.^[4]

The recipes are presented entirely as instructions, generally without analogy.^[a] Quantities, where stated, are incorporated in the text; ingredients are never listed explicitly. Quantities are sometimes named, as in the "Cream Bechamel Sauce", which begins "Put half dozen ounces of fresh butter into a middle-sized stewpan; add iv ounces of sifted flour, some nutmeg, a few peppercorns, and a little salt;". In other cases only the relative proportions are indicated, as for the "Salmis of Partridges with Aspic Jelly", where the only hint of quantity in the recipe is "must be mixed with one-third of its quantity of aspic jelly". This recipe also indicates the way of cantankerous-referencing, with the starting instruction "Prepare the salmis as directed in No. 1078".^[4]

"Iced Pudding à la Chesterfield", showing cones around the base filled with pineapple ice cream, making this the first printed source for ice foam cones^[5]

The Modernistic Cook is the first published record in England of filling wafer cornets, which Francatelli chosen gauffres, with ice cream. He used them to garnish his iced puddings.^[5]

Contents [edit]

The post-obit apply to the 28th edition of 1886. The table of contents did not take folio numbers.^[iv]

• Glossary, xiii
• Common Stock and Stock Sauces, 1
• Grand Sauces, 3
• Special Sauces, 4
• Cold Sauces, 22
• Purees of Vegetables for garnishes, 25
• Vegetable Garnishes, xxx
• Essences, Gravies, and Prepared Savoury Butters, 39
• Ragout and Garnishes, 43
• Broths and Consommés, 48
• Medicinal ditto, 52
• Braizes, Poeles, Mirepoix, Marinades, and Roux, 54
• Quenelle Forcemeats, 57
• Clear Consommé Soups, 61
• Purees of Vegetables for soups, 69
• Soups Made with Rice or Pearl-Barley, 78
• Bisques of Crayfish, and Other Shellfish Soups, lxxx
• Fish Soups and Water-Souchets, 84
• English Soups, 89
• Purees of Poultry and Game, 97^[b]
• Strange National Soups, 100
• Italian Soups, 106
• Panadas and Light Soups for Infants, etc., 108
• Dressed Fish, 110^[c]
  • Salmon, 115
  • Trout, 119
  • Sturgeon, 121
  • Cod Fish, 125
  • Haddocks and Cod's Sounds, 128
  • Dressed Soles, Gurnets, and Mackerel, 130
  • Dressed Mullets, etc., 134
  • Fresh-Water Fish, 138
  • Skate, Whitebait, and Scolloped Shell-Fish, 150
• Removes (Beef, Veal, Lamb, etc.), 152
• Entrees (Pies, casseroles, etc.), 226
• Second Form Roasts (game, poultry, etc.), 348
• Vegetables for Entremets, 351
• Entremets of Eggs, Macaroni, etc., 362
• Common cold Entrees for Ball Suppers, etc., 369
• Cold Raised Pies and Preserved Game, 382
• Different Kinds of Paste, 387
• Vol-au-Vent and Tourte Cases, 392
• Cakes in General, 396
• Small Pastry, 419
• Fritters, 430
• Iced Puddings and Ornamented Entremets, 433
• Timbales and Cakes of Macaroni, Nouilles, etc., 446
• Souffles, 448
• Puddings, 451
• Jellies, 458
• Creams, 465
• Mincemeats, 469
• Instructions for the Service of Wines, 477^[d]
• Bills of Fare, 483
• Index, 547

Illustrations [edit]

The 28th edition is illustrated with lx, mostly small, engravings. In that location is a total-page frontispiece of the author, fatigued by Auguste Hervieu and engraved by Samuel Freeman (1773–1857).^[6] Freeman is known for working mainly in stipple, and the portrait here is no exception.^[vii]

All the other engravings are of completed dishes, showing the serving-plate with the food arranged on it and often elaborately garnished. The artists and engravers of the nutrient illustrations are not identified.^[iv]

Bills of fare [edit]

A Bill of Fare for a dinner for six persons

Francatelli provides "A Serial of Bills of Fare for Every Calendar month Throughout the Year", including dinners variously for 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 16, 18, twenty, 24, 28 and 36 persons (though not all of these in every month). The bills of fare for dinners for vi persons thus correspond the simplest menus in the volume. All the dinners are divided into a first and a second "Course", but each course was divided in turn into three or iv servings, in almost cases with a choice of two or more than dishes. Thus at that place might be ane or two soups, two fishes, two "removes" of meat, and two savoury "entrées" in the first "Class", with a second "Course" of ane kind of game, followed past a choice of three "entremets" which included both savouries, generally vegetables, and desserts.^[iv]

There is a single bill of fare for a "Brawl Supper for 300 Persons", and one for a "Public Dinner" for the aforementioned number.^[4]

There are 13 bills of fare for "Her Majesty's Dinner", each with an exact date in 1841 and the words "(Under the control of C. Francatelli.)". Each of the royal dinners has either eight or nine courses (including a buffet or sideboard), except for that of 30 June which is divided into two "Services" and has 11 courses.^[4]

The regal dinners are described almost entirely in French, with the exception of the heading, the phrase "Side Board", and a few specifically British dishes such as "Roast Mutton" and "Haunch of Venison". In that location are usually two soups, two fishes, ii removes, six entrées, two roasts, ii more removes, six entremets, and between ii and vii dishes on the sideboard. The infrequent royal dinner of xxx June 1841 had 16 entrées and sixteen entremets. Some of these entremets used the most costly ingredients, including truffles in Champagne.^[four]

Publication [edit]

The Modernistic Melt was start published in 1846.^[viii] It reached its 29th edition in 1896. Francatelli presented a copy of the eighth edition to Queen Victoria on 4 June 1853.^[9]

Editions included:

• 1846, Kickoff edition. Richard Bentley & Son, London.
• 1846, Lea and Blanchard, Philadelphia.
• c. 1855, T.B. Peterson and Brothers, Philadelphia.
• 1858, 11th edition. Richard Bentley & Son, London.
• 1859, from 9th London edition. Thomas L. White, New Orleans.
• 1880, 13th edition. Richard Bentley & Son, London.
• 1886, 28th edition. Richard Bentley & Son, London.
• 1895, from 26th London edition. D. McKay, Philadelphia.
• 1896, 29th edition. Richard Bentley & Son, London.
• 1911, Reprint of 1st edition. Macmillan, London.
• 1973, Reprint of 1880 edition (T.B. Peterson and Brothers, Philadelphia). Dover, New York

• 

  "Turban of Ox-Palates a la Perigueux"

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• 

• 

  "Yorkshire or Christmas Pie"

Reception [edit]

Gimmicky [edit]

"Aspic of Fowl a la Reine"

Kettner's Book of the Table of 1877, describing Francatelli every bit "a type of all the great French cooks", asserted that he "gives a most elaborate recipe for aspic jelly; and he is so satisfied with it that, having to gear up a cold supper for 300 people, he works it up in every one of his 56 dishes which are neither sweetness nor hot. The book further argues that "this is the result of science—this the height of art. It produces, with such elaborate forms and regal ceremonies, an aspic jelly without aspic, that, exhausted in the effort, information technology can keep no further, and seems to recollect that here at final, in this supreme sauce, nosotros have a sure resting-place—the truthful blessedness—the ewigkeit."^[x]

George H. Ellwanger wrote in his Pleasures of the Table in 1902 that Francatelli's Modern Cook was "still a superior treatise, and although little adapted to the average household, it will well repay careful report on the part of the expert amateur. 'The palate is as capable and almost as worthy of education as the eye and the ear,' says Francatelli — a statement which his volume abundantly bears out." He added that "ane sees, appropriately, an ornate observance of ornamentation in his k ground forces of side-dishes. These are excellent throughout, but generally very elaborate, while his sauces and recipes for pastry are peculiarly good. The same may be said of his quenelles and timbales. A competent hand will find his work a valuable guide from which to obtain ideas; information technology is not a practical book for the majority."^[11]

The New Zealand Herald of 1912 commented that Francatelli was "an earnest and gifted worker in the crusade of gastronomy" and that The Modern Melt faithfully reflected Victorian dining habits. "Everything was good and solid of its kind, even if tending towards complexity rather than simplicity." The review opined that the bully joints of meat "decorated with their silver hatelet skewers bearing cock'due south combs and trufflets, were attended by the most flavory ragouts and garnishes." Despite the gloss, there was "nothing meretricious or deceptive in the savoury promises held out by Victorian comestibles." The reviewer notes, however, that even while Francatelli was describing this elaborate fare, the "excessive meat-eating" was being replaced past a diet richer in vegetables, and meals were becoming simpler, so that "now, in the 20th century, much that Francatelli wrote most ... is no longer needed."^[12]

Modern [edit]

One thousand. F. Thou. Fisher, writing in The New York Times, stated that millions of American women in the 19th century organised "every attribute of their lives .. as much equally possible in imitation of the Queen", and that The Modern Cook sold almost as well in America every bit it did in England. Albeit that few American kitchens could "follow all its directions for the light Gallic dainties Francatelli introduced to counteract the basic heaviness of royal dining habits", she argued that all the aforementioned his 2-class approach somewhen shaped the way Americans now consume both lunch and dinner. She observed that at Windsor Castle, Francatelli and other royal chefs were assisted by 24 assistant chefs and 2 "Yeomen of the Kitchen", not to mention a multitude of "servers and lackeys". This did not deter American housewives "every bit far westward every bit Iowa and then across" from doing their best to follow his instructions.^[13]

The Celebrated Nutrient website notes that Francatelli provides two recipes for mincemeat, one with roast beef, the other containing lemons but no meat.^[fourteen]

C. Anne Wilson, introducing Women and Victorian Values, 1837–1910. Advice Books, Manuals and Journals for Women, states that Francatelli was writing for the "upper middle-class housewife" in The Mod Melt, explaining to her how to serve the "socially important" dinner in English language, French and "à la Russe" styles. In contrast, his 1861 Cook's Guide is for "more ordinary" households, advocating "traditional two-course dinners".^[15]

Nick Baines writes on LoveFood that Francatelli included "a whole collection of lavish pies" in the volume.^[16]

Panikos Panayi, in his volume Spicing Up Britain, writes that Francatelli's volume for the middle classes definitely recognised differences between British and foreign foods, even in its full title which ran "...Comprising, in Add-on to English Cookery, the Most Advanced and Recherché Systems of French, Italian and German Cookery". Panayi notes that Francatelli's preface to the get-go edition was scathing almost ignorant "English writers on gastronomy", comparison them unfavourably to the "great Professors" of cuisine in France. Panayi observes further that while well-nigh of Francatelli'southward chapters are not grouped by national origin, he does distinguish English, Foreign, and Italian soups. He notes that it would accept taken years to eat all the dishes listed, and that it is incommunicable to tell how often middle-class families may have eaten "fillets of haddocks, à la royale". He considers it likely that only the wealthiest could have aspired to eat the sort of food described by Francatelli, but concedes that his bills of fare for dinners for six persons (past month) practise point that the middle classes could beget the best meat and vegetables, and indeed that they had domestic staff able to prepare dinners of that complication described in Francatelli's French terminology. Panayi concludes that Francatelli represents "perhaps the most extreme instance" of the nineteenth-century British habit of giving dishes French descriptions.^[17]

Notes [edit]

1. ^ Of the 1462 recipes in the 28th edition, only sixty are illustrated.
2. ^ in text, merely not in Table of Contents
3. ^ not subdivided in Table of Contents
4. ^ not in Tabular array of Contents

References [edit]

1. ^ Account books of the Lord Steward of the Imperial Household for 1840-42, National Annal, Kew, refs. LS two/66, LS 2/67 and LS 2/68
2. ^ Colin Smythe, "Charles Elmé Francatelli, Crockford's and the Purple Connection" in Petits Propos Culinaires 101 (2014), pp. 42–67, and "Charles Elmé Francatelli, Additions & Supplementations" in Petits Propos Culinaires 102 (2015), pp. 100–118
3. ^ "Charles Elme Francatelli". The Cook'south Guide. 2005. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
4. ^ ^{a b c d e f chiliad h} Francatelli, 1986
5. ^ ^{a b} Day, Ivan. "Wafer Making". Historic Food. Retrieved eighteen Jan 2016.
6. ^ "Auguste Hervieu (active 1819–1858)". National Portrait Gallery. Retrieved 17 January 2016.
7. ^ "Freeman, Samuel". Dictionary of National Biography. London: Smith, Elderberry & Co. 1885–1900.
8. ^ "Francatelli, Charles Elmé". Dictionary of National Biography. London: Smith, Elder & Co. 1885–1900.
9. ^ "The Modern cook : a practical guide to the culinary fine art in all its branches.../by Charles Elmé Francatelli. 1853". Majestic Collection Trust. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
10. ^ Dallas, Eneas Sweetland (1877). Kettner'due south Volume of the Tabular array (PDF). London: Dulau and Co.
11. ^ Ellwanger, George H. (1902). The pleasures of the table; an account of gastronomy from aboriginal days to nowadays times. With a history of its literature, schools, and most distinguished artists; together with some special recipes, and views concerning the aesthetics of dinners and dinner-giving. New York: Doubleday. p. 208.
12. ^ ""The Modern Cook"". New Zealand Herald. XLIX (14894): iv. 20 January 1912.
13. ^ Fisher, Chiliad. F. K. (15 September 1974). "Food: The Arts (Fine and Culinary) of 19th Century America". The New York Times . Retrieved 18 Jan 2016.
14. ^ "Broil Metes and Mince Pies". Celebrated Food. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
15. ^ Wilson, C. Anne. "Women and Victorian Values, 1837–1910 Advice Books, Manuals and Journals for Women". Adam Matthew Publications. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
16. ^ Baines, Nick (22 April 2012). "What makes the perfect pie?". LoveFood. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
17. ^ Panayi, Panikos (2010) [2008]. Spicing Up U.k.. Reaktion Books. pp. 22–23, 25, 81, 102–103, 116. ISBN978-ane-86189-658-2.

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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Modern_Cook

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